Monday, June 5, 2017

Hunting and Trapping Kit for Survival (No Firearms)

Putting together an inexpensive hunting and trapping kit, allows one to gather small game during a survival situation, or as a supplement to one’s regular diet. The idea with this hunting and trapping kit was to keep the cost relatively low, make the hunting and trapping kit easily packable, and avoid inclusion of firearms which too often require special permits (or may be prohibited entirely by oppressive governments).

The first item for the hunting and trapping kit is a serviceable knife. For this I choose the Cold Steel Bushman Bowie knife. The knife is designed for survival use, can be fashioned into a spear, and is relatively inexpensive.


Trapping small game such as rabbit, squirrel, and birds can return a meal for a small amount of work. Including a few metal rat traps in the kit allows one to set out a quick trap line. These rat traps will easily take game the size of a squirrel or a rabbit. The all-metal traps are stronger and last longer than those with the wooden base.


For game that is a bit larger I include a few snares. Snares can be very effective, but it is often the case that for any game larger than a hare, the snare wire gets twisted to such an extent after the animal has been caught that the snare isn’t useable a second time. Still a large raccoon, or such, makes a fine meal for the cost of a snare. Properly set, snares will also catch deer. The snare will hold the deer, but not kill it, so if you set a snare for deer be sure that you have a way to kill the deer after it has been caught (maybe with the Bushman Bowie fashioned into a spear).


I have previously written about the Conibear trap, and a few of these traps included in your hunting and trapping kit can be effective when set along runs and at the entrances to burrows and dens.


The Pathfinder School / Self Reliance Outfitters sells the DF-4 Trap Trigger, which is a trigger designed for use in the Figure-Four Deadfall. The DF-4 trigger makes it easy to set deadfalls in the field without the need to spend time constructing triggers. The DF-4 triggers are light-weight and are worth adding to your hunting and trapping kit if you use the Figure-Four Deadfall.



Game is often found near bodies of water, and of course fish, frogs, and turtles may be caught from ponds, lakes, and streams. For this I include a pocket fishing kit, gill net, and a heavy-duty frog gig.



For hunting, there is a slingshot and a pack of ammo (steel balls). Although it takes practice to develop skill with a slingshot, it is quite possible to hunt small game with a slingshot at ranges of 10 - 15 meters. Some slingshots can be modified, allowing them to shoot full-size arrows. These modified slingshots are known as sling-bows, and they can be used to take most any mid-sized game that could be taken using a regular recurve bow.


 



If you are able to spend a little more money when building your hunting and trapping kit, you could include a take-down bow, such as the Nomad Survival Bow, and perhaps a few extra take-down arrows such as the Pocket Hunter Arrows.




This hunting and trapping kit will easily fit in your bug-out bag, or could be cached where you could recover it when needed. Because the overall cost of this kit is fairly low, it can be assembled and left to be used at a future time, and if lost you don’t suffer a significant financial loss.



Sunday, June 4, 2017

Robert Rogers' - 28 Rules of Ranging


The 28 "Rules of Ranging" are a series of rules and guidelines originally created by Major Robert Rogers in 1757, during the French and Indian War (1754 - 1763). They were intended to serve as a manual on guerrilla warfare for Rogers' Ranger company. The rules were the result of Rogers' blend of American Indian tactics and his own innovative combat techniques, ideas that were considered revolutionary by military standards of the time. Combined with intensive training and live fire exercises, these rules created a mobile, well trained force that was capable of living off the land around it in order to sustain itself for long periods of time.

Today, the "Rules of Ranging" are still applicable to those who go into the field and range into remote and hostile areas.



1. All Rangers are to be subject to the rules and articles of war; to appear at roll-call every evening, on their own parade, equipped, each with a Firelock, sixty rounds of powder and ball, and a hatchet, at which time an officer from each company is to inspect the same, to see they are in order, so as to be ready on any emergency to march at a minute's warning; and before they are dismissed, the necessary guards are to be draughted, and scouts for the next day appointed.
    
2. Whenever you are ordered out to the enemy’s forts or frontiers for discoveries, if your number be small, march in a single file, keeping at such a distance from each other as to prevent one shot from killing two men, sending one man, or more, forward, and the like on each side, at the distance of twenty yards from the main body, if the ground you march over will admit of it, to give the signal to the officer of the approach of an enemy, and of their number,
    
3. If you march over marshes or soft ground, change your position, and march abreast of each other to prevent the enemy from tracking you (as they would do if you marched in a single file) till you get over such ground, and then resume your former order, and march till it is quite dark before you encamp, which do, if possible, on a piece of ground which that may afford your sentries the advantage of seeing or hearing the enemy some considerable distance, keeping one half of your whole party awake alternately through the night.
    
4. Some time before you come to the place you would reconnoitre, make a stand, and send one or two men in whom you can confide, to look out the best ground for making your observations.
    
5. If you have the good fortune to take any prisoners, keep them separate, till they are examined, and in your return take a different route from that in which you went out, that you may the better discover any party in your rear, and have an opportunity, if their strength be superior to yours, to alter your course, or disperse, as circumstances may require.
    
6. If you march in a large body of three or four hundred, with a design to attack the enemy, divide your party into three columns, each headed by a proper officer, and let those columns march in single files, the columns to the right and left keeping at twenty yards distance or more from that of the center, if the ground will admit, and let proper guards be kept in the front and rear, and suitable flanking parties at a due distance as before directed, with orders to halt on all eminences, to take a view of the surrounding ground, to prevent your being ambuscaded, and to notify the approach or retreat of the enemy, that proper dispositions may be made for attacking, defending, And if the enemy approach in your front on level ground, form a front of your three columns or main body with the advanced guard, keeping out your flanking parties, as if you were marching under the command of trusty officers, to prevent the enemy from pressing hard on either of your wings, or surrounding you, which is the usual method of the savages, if their number will admit of it, and be careful likewise to support and strengthen your rear-guard.
    
7. If you are obliged to receive the enemy's fire, fall, or squat down, till it is over; then rise and discharge at them. If their main body is equal to yours, extend yourselves occasionally; but if superior, be careful to support and strengthen your flanking parties, to make them equal to theirs, that if possible you may repulse them to their main body, in which case push upon them with the greatest resolution with equal force in each flank and in the center, observing to keep at a due distance from each other, and advance from tree to tree, with one half of the party before the other ten or twelve yards. If the enemy push upon you, let your front fire and fall down, and then let your rear advance thro' them and do the like, by which time those who before were in front will be ready to discharge again, and repeat the same alternately, as occasion shall require; by this means you will keep up such a constant fire, that the enemy will not be able easily to break your order, or gain your ground.

    
8. If you oblige the enemy to retreat, be careful, in your pursuit of them, to keep out your flanking parties, and prevent them from gaining eminences, or rising grounds, in which case they would perhaps be able to rally and repulse you in their turn.
    
9. If you are obliged to retreat, let the front of your whole party fire and fall back, till the rear hath done the same, making for the best ground you can; by this means you will oblige the enemy to pursue you, if they do it at all, in the face of a constant fire.
    
10. If the enemy is so superior that you are in danger of being surrounded by them, let the whole body disperse, and every one take a different road to the place of rendezvous appointed for that evening, which must every morning be altered and fixed for the evening ensuing, in order to bring the whole party, or as many of them as possible, together, after any separation that may happen in the day; but if you should happen to be actually surrounded, form yourselves into a square, or if in the woods, a circle is best, and, if possible, make a stand till the darkness of the night favours your escape.
    
11. If your rear is attacked, the main body and flankers must face about to the right or left, as occasion shall require, and form themselves to oppose the enemy, as before directed; and the same method must be observed, if attacked in either of your flanks, by which means you will always make a rear of one of your flank-guards.
    
12. If you determine to rally after a retreat, in order to make a fresh stand against the enemy, by all means endeavour to do it on the most rising ground you come at, which will give you greatly the advantage in point of situation, and enable you to repulse superior numbers.
    
13. In general, when pushed upon by the enemy, reserve your fire till they approach very near, which will then put them into the greatest surprise and consternation, and give you an opportunity of rushing upon them with your hatchets and cutlasses to the better advantage.

    
14. When you encamp at night, fix your sentries in such a manner as not to be relieved from the main body till morning, profound secrecy and silence being often of the last importance in these cases. Each sentry therefore should consist of six men, two of whom must be constantly alert, and when relieved by their fellows, it should be done without noise; and in case those on duty see or hear any thing, which alarms them, they are not to speak, but one of them is silently to retreat, and acquaint the commanding officer thereof, that proper dispositions may be made; and all occasional sentries should be fixed in like manner.
    
15. At the first dawn of day, awake your whole detachment; that being the time when the savages choose to fall upon their enemies, you should by all means be in readiness to receive them.
    
16. If the enemy should be discovered by your detachments in the morning, and their numbers are superior to yours, and a victory doubtful, you should not attack them till the evening, as then they will not know your numbers, and if you are repulsed, your retreat will be favoured by the darkness of the night.
    
17. Before you leave your encampment, send out small parties to scout round it, to see if there be any appearance or track of an enemy that might have been near you during the night.
    
18. When you stop for refreshment, choose some spring or rivulet if you can, and dispose your party so as not to be surprised, posting proper guards and sentries at a due distance, and let a small party waylay the path you came in, lest the enemy should be pursuing.
    
19. If, in your return, you have to cross rivers, avoid the usual fords as much as possible, lest the enemy should have discovered, and be there expecting you.
    
20. If you have to pass by lakes, keep at some distance from the edge of the water, lest, in case of an ambuscade or an attack from the enemy, when in that situation, your retreat should be cut off.
    
21. If the enemy pursue your rear, take a circle till you come to your own tracks, and there form an ambush to receive them, and give them the first fire.
    
22. When you return from a scout, and come near our forts, avoid the usual roads, and avenues thereto, lest the enemy should have headed you, and lay in ambush to receive you, when almost exhausted with fatigues.
    
23. When you pursue any party that has been near our forts or encampments, follow not directly in their tracks, lest they should be discovered by their rear guards, who, at such a time, would be most alert; but endeavour, by a different route, to head and meet them in some narrow pass, or lay in ambush to receive them when and where they least expect it.
    
24. If you are to embark in canoes, battoes, or otherwise, by water, choose the evening for the time of your embarkation, as you will then have the whole night before you, to pass undiscovered by any parties of the enemy, on hills, or other places, which command a prospect of the lake or river you are upon.
    
25. In paddling or rowing, give orders that the boat or canoe next the sternmost, wait for her, and the third for the second, and the fourth for the third, and so on, to prevent separation, and that you may be ready to assist each other on any emergency.
    
26. Appoint one man in each boat to look out for fires, on the adjacent shores, from the numbers and size of which you may form some judgment of the number that kindled them, and whether you are able to attack them or not.
    
27. If you find the enemy encamped near the banks of a river or lake, which you imagine they will attempt to cross for their security upon being attacked, leave a detachment of your party on the opposite shore to receive them, while, with the remainder, you surprise them, having them between you and the lake or river.
    
28. If you cannot satisfy yourself as to the enemy's number and strength, from their fire, conceal your boats at some distance, and ascertain their number by a reconnoitering party, when they embark, or march, in the morning, marking the course they steer, when you may pursue, ambush, and attack them, or let them pass, as prudence shall direct you. In general, however, that you may not be discovered by the enemy upon the lakes and rivers at a great distance, it is safest to lay by, with your boats and party concealed all day, without noise or shew; and to pursue your intended route by night; and whether you go by land or water, give out parole and countersigns, in order to know one another in the dark, and likewise appoint a station every man to repair to, in case of any accident that may separate you.









Saturday, June 3, 2017

Bears


Black bears and grizzly bears have many things in common. Both bears are highly intelligent and individualistic. Both sleep through most of the winter, and both eat many different foods, most of them plants. Through the course of a single year, both bears use a wide variety of habitats, from low valleys to high meadows. Both have good eyesight and an excellent sense of smell; they can detect scents miles away. Both are powerful, fast, and protective of their young. And both species vary greatly in the color of their coat - black bears are not always black and grizzly bears are not always grizzled - making it very difficult at times to distinguish between the two

Bears do not naturally associate people with food, but they are opportunistic feeders. A bear drawn to a camp by the smell of garbage in a fire pit may discover containers of food on a picnic table and learn that campgrounds and campsites provide easy meals. The bear will remember this lesson for the rest of its life and pass the knowledge on to its young. A bear may seek food at camps aggressively and repeatedly over a long period.



Bears are individuals, each behaving differently in different circumstances. There are no precise rules about what to do if you encounter a bear, but there are generally effective measures to be followed.

Always stay alert to your surroundings. Be especially wary in places where there is food favored by bears; for example, berries or carcasses of large animals.

Avoid startling a bear. Where sight distance is limited or flowing water is muffling sounds, make noise by talking, singing, shouting, or clapping your hands. Do not make shrill or high-pitched noises as these may attract bears. Some hikers use bells for noise, but talking carries better, and bells may arouse a bear's curiosity.


Be especially alert if hiking around dawn or dusk. Bears can be active at any time of the day or night but are more often encountered at those times.

Be watchful when traveling off trail. Bears rest and sleep in day beds; for example, next to a log, in dense brush, the depression of a fallen tree, or out in a grassy meadow.

If you see a bear, do not approach it. If the bear has not seen you, calmly leave the area while talking aloud to make it aware you are there and are moving away. Most bears will leave when they see or hear you.

Do not come between a bear and her cubs. Bears are very protective of their offspring.

A bear stands up to better identify what you are, not to threaten you.

If a bear approaches you, do not scream or run or make sudden motions.

Horns are unproven in their effectiveness. High pitched noises can arouse curiosity or anger in bears.

Offensive attacks by bears are very rare. It is difficult to generalize accurately about the reasons for attacks or what to do when they occur. Most attacks thought to have been predation involved black bears, while most attacks by grizzly bears have been defensive, especially by females with cubs. Every instance is different, and what works best cannot be known with certainty in advance.

Food Storage in Camp


Take at least 50 feet (15 meters) of parachute cord or rope on backcountry or boating trips. If the campground lacks a food storage box, place your food, cooking gear, and toiletries in a bag. Choose a tree at least 100 yards (90 meters) from your tent, if possible, and downwind. You want the food bag to be visible from a distance as you approach. Suspend the bag from a limb of the tree so that it is at least 10 feet (3 meters) from the ground and 4 feet (1.2 meters) from the trunk.

Avoid contaminating sleeping gear with food odors; do not use sleeping bag stuff sacks, tent sacks, or clothing bags for food storage.

Remember to hang empty food packaging, garbage, cooking pots and utensils, cosmetics, sunscreen, insect repellent, soap, toothpaste and any other fragrant item with your food.

Never cook or eat in your tent.

Never keep any food, or anything that held food, in your tent.


If you are attacked by a bear you may have to shoot it. Aim for the snout of a charging bear - a high shot goes into the upper skull or even over the top, into the neck or spine; and if the bear hops or you shoot low, you have a chance at the throat, chest, or even a shoulder or leg, all of which can stop the animal, if only long enough for you to aim and shoot again. However, remember that a charging bear is going to cover 40 meters in just about three seconds. This situation will require subconscious, high stress weapon manipulations on demand with the resulting 1 or 2 shots you do manage to squeeze off dictating your survival.





Using the Toilet in the Forest


When travelling and camping in the forest, sooner or later you are going to need to use the toilet. Urination has little, if any, adverse effect on the natural environment and when travelling through an area it is reasonable to step a bit off the trail and away from water sources and urinate as needed. Defecating in the forest will however leave a trace of your presence – a pile of poop. When you defecate in the forest it is best to first did a cat hole. A cat hole is just a hole about 15-20 cm deep and big enough in diameter for you to do your business in it. After defecating in the hole, you simply re-fill the hole with dirt, burying your poop, where it will decompose naturally. Biodegradable toilet tissue / wipes can also be buried in the cat hole. You may also choose to burn the toilet tissue in the cat hole before re-filling the cat hole with dirt.


At your bug-out camp, or other location where you will be remaining for several days, digging a cat hole each time you use the toilet is not going to be effective, and over time you will have dozens of cat holes scattered around your camp. At a camp, you should build a latrine for disposing of human and camp waste. The following illustration shows a latrine from a Scouting manual. A hole filled with stones for urination and a slit trench for defecation, and a hand-washing station, help dispose of waste at your camp and maintain proper sanitation in the area.



Straddle Trench Latrine. The trench is dug 30-centimeters wide, 75-centimeters deep, and 120-centimeters long. Since there are no seats on this type of latrine, boards may be placed along both sides of the trench to provide sure footing. As the earth is removed, it is piled at one end of the trench, and a shovel or paddle is provided so that each user can promptly cover his excreta. Ensure that the latrine is at least 60 meters from any water source, and built downwind from your camp.

The latrine is burned out by adding sufficient fuel to the straddle trench to incinerate the fecal matter. If the contents are not rendered dry and odorless by one burning, they should be burned again. Any remaining ash should be buried when the latrine is filled in. The July 1913 issue of 'Boy's Life' magazine (pp. 13) recommended that latrines should be burned out daily, although this may not be necessary is there is only a couple people at your bug-out camp. Burning out the latrine does however reduce the number of insects that are likely to gather around it, so frequently burning out your latrine can help keep the area free of flies and other insects.

Toilet paper can be placed on suitable holders and protected from bad weather by a tin can or other covering at the latrine.  However, toilet paper is bulky and can be difficult to pack into a remote location in any quantity greater than a few rolls. One option for wipes that can be more easily carried into remote areas is Wysi Wipe Multi-Purpose Wipes. According to their advertisement: "Wysi Wipes are the preferred alternative to pre-moistened towelettes, facial tissue or paper towels. They are 100% natural, biodegradable and land-fill friendly. No chemicals and no artificial smelly scents. When you need a refreshing and durable wipe, you simply add a liquid. And it only takes a tablespoon full. Wysi Wipes, almost instantly, turn into a durable and reusable cloth."  I carry a few Wysi Wipes in my rucksack and find that they are a convenient and useful item for use in the forest.


In his 1917 book, "Household and Camp Insects" Ephraim Porter Felt recommended placing a few fly traps around latrines to reduce the number of flies in such places (pp.19). Modern fly traps are available from many sources, and can help reduce the flies in your camp and around your latrine.

The basic rule in the forest is ‘leave no trace’. Keep the area around your camp clean and avoid contaminating your water supply. A properly constructed latrine helps you do all of these things.



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Friday, June 2, 2017

Flip-Flop Winch



The flip-flop winch was a technique developed during the Great Patriotic War (Вели́кая Оте́чественная война́) (WWII), or perhaps earlier, and popularized in the survival community by Canadian bushcraft and wilderness survival instructor, naturalist and author, Mors Kochanski.  

Using a rope and two 10cm (4 inch) diameter poles, each about 2 - 2.5 meters in length, you can use the principle of leverage to recover a stuck vehicle or move other heavy objects such as boulders and fallen trees. The flip-flop winch is easy to set-up and use, but does require an open area to operate the winch, and an anchor point in line with your intended direction of pull.

A few videos that demonstrate the flip-flop winch are here:


The flip-flop winch is easy to use, but as with all of our fieldcraft and survival skills it must be practiced to develop and maintain proficiency.



Thursday, June 1, 2017

Two-Factor Authentication (2FA)


One of the best security procedures you can take to protect your on-line accounts is to enable two-factor authentication for websites that support it. With password breaches so common nowadays, it could be the one thing that keeps hackers from stealing your identity on-line.

Two-factor authentication (2FA) adds a second level of security to an on-line account log-in. When you have to enter only your username and one password, that's considered a single-factor authentication. Two-factor authentication requires the user to have two out of three types of credentials before being able to access an account. The three types are:

  • Something you know, such as a personal identification number (PIN), password or a pattern
  • Something you have, such as an ATM card, phone, or fob
  • Something you are, such as a biometric like a fingerprint or voice print

One of the most common ways to use two-factor authentication is to receive a secondary PIN or password sent to your cell-phone by text message (SMS). Another popular method is to use an app on your cell-phone that generates a new PIN every 30-seconds. These apps include "Authy App" and "Google Authenticator" .


Of course there are attacks that can be run against two-factor authentication, but using two-factor authentication offers more protection than logging in without it. When you make an attack harder, you're disabling a certain subset of adversaries that may want to target you.

Some popular sites that allow you to set up two factor authentication include:

  • Facebook
  • Gmail
  • Google+
  • Hushmail
  • Mail.Ru
  • Snapchat
  • Telegram
  • Tumblr
  • Twitter
  • VK
  • WhatsApp
  • WordPress

A list of many other web-sites and services that offer two-factor authentication can be found at: https://twofactorauth.org/

Using two-factor authentication increases the security of your on-line accounts. Where possible, I recommend that you use Authy or Google Authenticator in place of text / SMS so that you don’t have to rely on having cell-service in order to use two-factor authentication.